Our Albania Road Trip Itinerary
From Tirana to the Albanian Riviera
When we started planning our trip to Albania, we knew very little about the country beyond its beautiful coastline and UNESCO World Heritage Sites. By the time we flew home, we were already talking about returning.
Albania surprised us. We found welcoming people, incredible farm to table dining, charming historic towns, breathtaking mountain scenery, and some of the clearest water we’ve ever seen.
We visited in June, and I think it was the perfect time. The weather was warm without being unbearably hot, the beaches were still peaceful, and many of the most popular attractions could be enjoyed without the peak summer crowds.
If you’re planning your own Albania road trip, here’s the itinerary we followed, along with our favorite hotels, restaurants, and a few things we’d do differently.
Day 1 – Arrival in Tirana (June 5)
After spending two wonderful days in London, we landed in Tirana around 11:00 p.m. and checked into Hotel Boka, located just a short walk from the New Bazaar (Pazari i Ri).
Since it was late, we settled into our room and called it a night. The hotel’s location proved to be an excellent base for exploring the city the next day.
Where We Stayed
● Hotel Boka
Day 2 – Exploring Tirana (June 6)
Our first full day in Albania was spent exploring Tirana on foot.
Because Hotel Boka is located near the New Bazaar, we were able to walk to many of the city’s most popular attractions. Before arriving, I had created a sightseeing checklist, and it was fun finally seeing each place in person.
One of the best surprises of the day was discovering traditional Albanian cuisine. We enjoyed lunch at Era Vila, and loved it so much that we returned for dinner that same evening. It was the perfect introduction to Albanian food, and one of the restaurants we still talk about.
After a full day of sightseeing, we returned to the hotel excited for the road trip ahead.
Our Recommendations
Stay
● Hotel Boka (Budget Hotel)
Eat
● Era Vila (Lunch & Dinner)
Day 3 – Tirana to Fishte (June 7)
Before leaving Tirana, one of my favorite moments of the trip happened over a simple cup of coffee.
I was sitting outside the hotel enjoying the morning while everyone else finished getting ready when I discovered macchiatos. It arrived in a small espresso cup with a heart made from milk foam, I’m in love.
After walking with our luggage to pick up our rental car, our adventure got off to a rocky start. Shortly after leaving the city, every warning light illuminated on the dashboard. We immediately returned the vehicle and exchanged it for another at Tirana International Airport.
Looking back, I would recommend renting your car directly from the airport. Even if it means taking a taxi from downtown, I think it’s much easier than navigating city traffic on your first day.
Our destination was Mrizi i Zanave in Fishte, and it ended up being one of the highlights of our trip.
From the moment we arrived, we knew this place was special. We stayed at Fishte Guesthouse and we were welcomed with rose water and homemade cherry raki before checking in.
I quickly became obsessed with the delicate floral flavor of the rose water and have every intention of recreating it at home.
Before dinner we wandered around the farm and were surprised by the number of concrete bunkers scattered throughout the countryside a reminder of Albania’s history.
Dinner that evening was unforgettable. Nearly everything served was grown or produced on the farm or from a local farmer, making it one of the finest farm to table meals we’ve ever experienced.
Our Recommendations
Stay
● Fishte Guesthouse at Mrizi i Zanave
Eat
● Mrizi i Zanave Restaurant
Don’t Miss
● Walk around the farm before dinner. Don’t forget to go where they make the wine and the cheese.
Tip
If your itinerary allows, spend the night instead of just stopping for lunch. The experience is worth slowing down for.
Day 4 – Krujë (June 8)
The drive to Krujë included an unexpected detour.
After taking a wrong turn leaving Fishte, we found ourselves winding through quiet country roads before eventually reaching Lezhë. Some of the rural roads were rough with potholes, although Albania’s road network continues to improve.
Parking in Krujë turned out to be one of the biggest challenges of our trip.
We stayed inside the castle area, and navigating the steep, narrow streets wasn’t easy. If I returned, I would stay at Panorama Hotel, which has its own parking garage. Unfortunately, I changed our plans at the last minute and they were already fully booked.
Once we were settled, we enjoyed lunch at Panorama Hotel overlooking the famous bazaar. We were lucky enough to get a window table, but I’d recommend making reservations if possible.
The afternoon was spent wandering through the beautiful cobblestone bazaar before enjoying dinner at Restaurant Bardhi, another outstanding farm to table restaurant where much of the food is produced on-site.
Our Recommendations:
Stay
● We stayed inside the castle.
● Next time I’d choose Panorama Hotel.
Eat
● Panorama Restaurant (Lunch)
● Restaurant Bardhi (Dinner)
Tip
: Parking is much easier if you’re staying at Panorama Hotel.
Days 5–7 – Berat (June 9–11)
Berat quickly became one of my favorite cities in Albania.
We checked into Hotel Mangalemi, which was perfectly located for exploring the historic neighborhoods on foot.
For lunch on our first day we visited Tradita e Beratit. Although the setting was beautiful, we weren’t able to get one of the coveted river view tables, and the meal was one of the few that didn’t quite live up to the rest of our trip.
Fortunately, Berat had plenty more memorable experiences waiting for us.
We spent the next three days wandering the cobblestone streets, visiting the castle, exploring churches and viewpoints, discovering hidden corners of the old town, and enjoying countless macchiatos. I even brought home traditional Albanian macchiato cups as souvenirs.
One of our favorite days was our excursion to Bogovë Waterfall and Osum Canyon. We hadn’t packed swimsuits and immediately wished we had. We still couldn’t resist jumping into the beautiful blue water.
Our guide took us to several overlooks before hiking into the canyon itself, where we had lunch beside the river, including freshly caught fish. It was one of the most memorable experiences of the trip.
Another highlight was visiting Çobo Winery, where we sampled local wines and somehow ended up purchasing some to bring home.
Let’s just say our luggage was considerably heavier for the flight home.
We also enjoyed two excellent dinners inside Berat Castle. Dining within the ancient fortress on excellent Albanian dishes.
Our Recommendations
Stay
● Hotel Mangalemi
Eat
● Restaurant Klea (inside Berat Castle), Temi Albanian Food (Berat Castle), Ansel Traditional Food (great views of the river)
● Çobo Winery
Don’t Miss
● Bogovë Waterfall
● Osum Canyon
● Berat Castle
● Çobo Winery
Tips
● Bring a swimsuit to Bogovë Waterfall.
At this point in our trip, we had already fallen in love with Albania but the beautiful beaches of the Albanian Riviera were still ahead.
Days 8–9: Relaxing in Vlorë
Originally, we planned to spend just one night in Vlorë before continuing to Përmet. As soon as we arrived, we realized we weren’t ready to leave. We canceled our plans for Përmet and added an extra night in Vlorë, a decision that turned out to be one of the best we made during our trip.
Our spacious two bedroom suite gave everyone room to spread out and relax after several busy days of sightseeing. Being able to park directly in front of the hotel made arriving and leaving incredibly convenient.
Across the street from the hotel was a beach club with both a swimming pool and beach access. After checking in, we enjoyed pizza overlooking the Adriatic before heading into Old Town Vlorë. We spent the afternoon wandering the historic streets, stopping for gelato before returning to the hotel for an excellent seafood dinner.
The next morning we planned to visit the Narta Lagoon Bird Sanctuary, but Google Maps led us to the wrong location. Instead of the monastery and wooden bridges, we ended up at a kite surfing beach along the lagoon. Although it wasn’t what we expected, it became one of those travel moments we can laugh about now.
From there we drove to Veliera Restaurant, where we enjoyed one of our favorite lunches in Vlorë. The outdoor terrace surrounded by flowers was beautiful, although it was just a little too breezy to sit outside.
That afternoon we returned to our hotel and spent the rest of the day exploring on foot. We walked the entire Lungomare from our hotel to the Ferris wheel and back, stopping for another gelato along the way.
Before dinner we relaxed at the beach club across from Hotel Gold. Having both a pool and the Adriatic Sea in one location made for a perfect afternoon. We watched the sunset over the water before ending the day with pizza at the hotel right next door to hotel gold
Looking back, adding an extra day in Vlorë was one of the best decisions we made. It allowed us to slow down and enjoy where we were.
Where We Stayed
- Hotel Gold
Where We Ate
- Hotel Gold Restaurant
- Veliera Restaurant
- Pizza restaurant next to Hotel Gold
- Hotel Gold Restaurant
Day 10: Gjirokastër Albania’s Stone City
Leaving the coast behind, we drove inland to the UNESCO World Heritage city of Gjirokastër.
We checked into Hotel Musée, which had one of my favorite rooms of the trip. The beautifully restored hotel fit perfectly with the character of this historic city.
For lunch we stopped at Castle View Restaurant, a family owned restaurant just below the castle. The owners were incredibly welcoming, and the meal was so memorable.
The afternoon was spent exploring Gjirokastër Castle, touring the fascinating Cold War Tunnel, and wandering through the Old Bazaar. Every turn revealed another beautiful stone street or historic building. We also Visited a historical Ottoman home.
One of my favorite memories wasn’t a famous attraction at all. It was sitting in the bazaar with a glass of Albanian wine, watching people stroll through one of the most picturesque town squares in the country.
We finished the evening with dinner in the bazaar before taking one last walk through the beautifully lit streets.
Where We Stayed
- Hotel Musée
Where We Ate
- Castle View Restaurant
- Restaurant in the Old Bazaar, I don’t know the name
Don’t Miss
- Gjirokastër Castle
- Cold War Tunnel
- Old Bazaar
- Enjoying a glass of local wine while soaking in the atmosphere of the bazaar
Day 11 – Blue Eye and Himarë
We left Gjirokastër early and made our way toward the Albanian Riviera, with one unforgettable stop along the way, The Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër).
If you’re planning a visit, I highly recommend arriving early. We reached the Blue Eye before the larger crowds arrived, and it made a huge difference. By the time we were leaving, the walking path was becoming much busier.
The walk from the parking area is scenic and well worth it, although there is also a small tourist train if you prefer not to walk. It is about 1 mile each way. If you aren’t planning to stay long or think you’re going to jump out and take a look. It is a little walk into the spring. The train can save you time.When we reached the spring, I couldn’t believe the color of the water. The brilliant shades of blue and turquoise almost looked unreal. It was one of the most beautiful natural places we visited in Albania.
After our visit, we continued to Himarë and checked into Vila Kosteli, a simple, clean, family run hotel located just across the street from the beach. The owners made us feel incredibly welcome throughout our stay.
For lunch we rented loungers at Piccadilly Beach and spent the afternoon enjoying the crystal clear water. It was calm, refreshing, and one of the prettiest beaches we visited during the trip. Looking back, I wish I had packed water shoes and goggles because I would have spent even more time in the water.
One of the things we loved most about visiting in June was how peaceful everything felt. Several locals told us July and August are much busier, making June an ideal time to experience the Albanian Riviera.
Later that afternoon we walked to the marina, where we could see the Greek island of Corfu in the distance. We enjoyed a delicious Greek dinner at To Steki Sti Gonia before taking one last evening stroll along the waterfront.
As the sun began to set, the owner of our hotel invited us upstairs for a glass of homemade raki. Sitting on the rooftop, watching the sunset over Himarë while talking with a local, was the perfect ending to our final evening on the coast.
- Where We Stayed
- ● Villa Kosteli
- Where We Ate
- ● Piccadilly Beach Restaurant and Swim Lounger Rentals
- ● Greek restaurant near the marina
- Don’t Miss
- ● Blue Eye
- ● Himarë Beach
- ● Walking to the marina
- ● Sunset along the waterfront
Day 12 – Returning to Tirana
Before leaving the Albanian Riviera, we made one more stop at Narta Lagoon, this time finding the beautiful monastery and wooden bridges that we had accidentally missed a couple of days earlier.
It was a peaceful place to end our road trip and well worth the short detour.
Before heading inland, we stopped along the beach for one last lemon soda while taking in our final views of the Adriatic Sea.
After returning our rental car at the airport, we took a taxi and we checked back into Hotel Boka, where our Albanian adventure had begun. it was less expensive to go back into the city by taxi then stay the night at an airport hotel. But, staying out at the airport would have been a nice option to for our flight the next day.
We spent our last few hours wandering through the New Bazaar, picking up a few final souvenirs before enjoying dinner at Oda Garden, a charming restaurant tucked away in a peaceful courtyard and very close to our hotel. Live music was scheduled to begin later that evening, but with an early flight the next morning, we called it a night.
Final Thoughts
Albania completely exceeded our expectations.
Every destination offered something unique. Tirana introduced us to Albanian culture, Fishte gave us one of the best farm to table meals we’ve ever experienced, Berat and Gjirokastër transported us back in time, and the Albanian Riviera provided the perfect place to slow down and simply enjoy the moment.
If I were planning this itinerary again, I would:
● Visit in June before the peak summer crowds.
● Rent a car from Tirana International Airport.
● Spend more time along along Albanian Riviera
● Stay overnight at Mrizi I Zanave at Fishtë guesthouse.
● Bring a swimsuit to Bogovë Waterfall.
● Hike Theth to Valbone
Albania quickly became one of my favorite countries in Europe. Between the incredible hospitality, delicious food, fascinating history, beautiful beaches, and breathtaking mountain scenery, it’s a destination I hope to return to someday.
If you’re considering an Albania road trip, I hope this itinerary helps you plan an unforgettable adventure of your own.